Today hasn’t been what I expected it to be. First off, Tiff made me walk everywhere. In retrospect, it wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be, but when I saw the Metro yesterday I was really excited about being able to ride everywhere. Not so.
It’s good for me, she says. It’s part of the European fitness plan (Be broke, eat less, walk more. More walking = more eating). Whatever.
We walked up to the Tourist Information office first this morning. Actually, we walked up to the Metro stop near it and asked a nice girl handing out flyers where we could find the TI. She sent us to the Metro Information (which is close, for someone who speaks very little English), and they sent us up to the right office.
There, a woman blessedly fluent in English gave us a large pile of information. While I tried to puzzle out how to stuff the two maps, book, papers, and everything else into my backpack she gave Tiffany a really nice folder and mousepad. Greece wins the award for the best TI we’ve been to yet.
The rest of the day was equally pleasant. We walked a lot, of course, but saw a good bit too. The national garden was a nice stop while we planned our day, then we headed up to the National Archeological Museum. That took ever bit of the two-and-a-half hours we gave it, and probably could have used a little more. It has artifacts from Neolithic times up to the rise of Constantine. The prehistoric exhibit was one of the best I’ve seen anywhere, and the statue of Zeus/Poseidon (the jury’s still out on who it actually is) was frighteningly powerful looking. Wandering through all the statues of old Athens, it’s easy to see why the early Christians were so bothered by them (besides the religious reasons), and yet why they were so hard to get out of the minds of the masses. Ending with Constantine, the first Christian emperor, really brought that idea forward as well.
Every year donkeys and mules kill more people than plane crashes. Thank you National Geographic for that bizarre message imbedded in a commercial in which this nice old lady is crushed by a donkey kicking over a cartload of melons.
The rest of the day was still nice, but not as exciting. We walked halfway across the city to check on a train to Thessalonica (and thus by Olympus), then wandered around the tourist shops for a couple of hours. They run all up by the old city, so we saw a good bit of the ruins by night too. I tried to get a couple of pictures, but Tiff’s camera and I don’t get along well after dark. We went through a little Greek folk art museum in the tourist district that was as impressive for its architecture as it was for its art. It was originally the home of some woman who seemed to be historically important, but we didn’t know who she was and none of the Greek signs were of any help.
It’s all Greek to me, after all.
Sorry, I had to.
I can’t mention all the souvenirs we bought since several of my readers will be receiving them for Christmas presents, but we got great deals on them. One woman couldn’t make Tiffany the deal she wanted on a T-shirt, so she told us to come back in a half hour (once the manager left) and gave it to us then. She was a sly little lady who was tired of looking at the Olympic stuff and wanted it out of her store while people would still pay something for it.
The Mcdonald’s here is blessedly cheap again. That’s not really been the case in all the rest of Europe. We stopped at the one near our hotel on the way back and I got a “Greek-Mac” (a Big Mac in a pita). It was quite tasty.
So yes, I like Athens. I might even love Athens. I’m in the cradle of civilization here, and it’s amazing to look at artifacts from the same time as our earliest Native American artifacts.
I liked the Cyclandic man best. This flat-faced statue is older than most of the records our bible is based on. I think the actual date for this fellow is around 2500BC, but I might be wrong. Anyway, his straight-arrow stance, and simple form represent (to me, anyway) an early split from realism to a more artistic endeavor. There’s something of a mystery around him, and the more I observed the various statues built this way, the more fascinated I was. I bought a small replica that’s challenging me with the same flat-faced stare now. Also of interest was the Golden Mask of Agamemnon, which dates from the 16th century, which is 300 years before Agamemnon. But Schlieman, who discovered it, named it that and the name has stuck.
Don’t go to this museum if you’re bothered by death-monuments. Everything there is from a grave or a temple, and the graves outnumber the worship objects by a good bit.
We’re watching the Green Mile. It’s really nice getting movies in English here too, even if they do have all the Greek squiggles across the bottom. And even if I have seen this movie several times, it’s still good. Stephen King’s still got it, even if it’s not absolute terror he’s decided to evoke any more.
So, yes, Athens is good. Tomorrow we’re doing more of the truly touristy things. I can’t wait.